Known widely by the
nickname"Hanoi Hilton" given to it by the Americans during the Second
Indochina War, Hoa Lo Prison was originally established by the French colonial
government in 1896 for the purpose of detaining political prisoners and formed
part of a northern network of "unjust and cruel prisons" which
included Cao Bang, Son La, Lai Chau and Hai Phong.
The French called the prison
Maison Centrale - a traditional euphemism to denote prisons in France. A 1913
renovation expanded its capacity from 460 inmates to 600. It was nevertheless
often overcrowded, holding some 730 prisoners on a given day in 1916, a figure
which would rise to 895 in 1922 and 1,430 in 1933. By 1954 it held more than
2000 people; with its inmates held in subhuman conditions, it had become a
symbol of colonialist exploitation and of the bitterness of the Vietnamese
towards the French.
Most of the original prison was
demolished in 1996 to make way for the Hanoi Towers (now Somerset Grand Hanoi)
serviced apartment and office complex, but the southernmost corner has been
preserved and reopened to the public as a memorial to the revolutionaries who
died here in atrocious conditions. During the War, at Hoa Lo Prison conditions
were appalling; food was watery soup and bread. Prisoners were variously
isolated, starved, beaten, tortured for countless hours and paraded in
anti-American propaganda. "It is easy to die but hard to live", a
prison guard told one new arrival, "and we will show you just how hard it
is to live: The prison is really a Hell on Earth”. At present, visitors can
view the original cells, complete with leg-irons, along with a selection of
bilingual (Vietnamese and English) displays illustrating the horrors of life in
the prison during the French colonial period.
The Hanoi Hilton was depicted in
the eponymous 1987 Hollywood movie The Hanoi Hilton. Hanoi Tower, built on the
site of the infamous prison "Hanoi Hilton"; the entrance to the
remaining parts of the prison visible in the foreground. By 1996, most of the
walls of the Hanoi Hilton had been torn down to make way for new construction.
Portions of the walls were retained for historical reasons. The Vietnamese also
have bitter memories of the prison, for many communist revolutionaries were
kept and tortured there. In 1998, the old front of the prison was painted and
restored and the remaining portions of the prison were turned into a tourist
site. Some of the cells have been opened and considerable information about
Vietnamese prisoners is available. The information about the U.S. prisoners of
war is unreliable. There is now a Hilton Hotel in Hanoi, called the Hilton
Hanoi Opera Hotel, which opened in 1999. It was built decades after the Vietnam
War was over, but Hilton carefully avoided reusing the dreaded name Hanoi
Hilton.
Hoa Lo Prison is a historical
attraction to many local and foreign visitors. You should pay a visit to the
prison to experience the history with your own eyes.
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